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Birds & Fruit Fly Deterrent
Make bags from insect netting or old net curtains this will prevent the adult fruit fly from getting to the fruit to lay her eggs, these bags also prevent sunburn of fruit, and are re-useable. I made some and they work really well. They also stop the pesky birds from taking a bite from the fruit and dropping them to the ground.
Make bags from insect netting or old net curtains this will prevent the adult fruit fly from getting to the fruit to lay her eggs, these bags also prevent sunburn of fruit, and are re-useable. I made some and they work really well. They also stop the pesky birds from taking a bite from the fruit and dropping them to the ground.
Hot, Dry Summer
The most important things that are needed this season are related to preparing for the upcoming hot and dry summer. Growers should start preparing for a dry spring and summer (but rejoice if we get rain) (unfortunately it is not looking promising with all long range forecasts and international models predicting El Nino)......sigh!!!!!! Please read tips for Conserve water this summer.
Here's a link to the weather bureau site that provides regular updates on ENSO status: http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/enso/index.shtml
The most important things that are needed this season are related to preparing for the upcoming hot and dry summer. Growers should start preparing for a dry spring and summer (but rejoice if we get rain) (unfortunately it is not looking promising with all long range forecasts and international models predicting El Nino)......sigh!!!!!! Please read tips for Conserve water this summer.
Here's a link to the weather bureau site that provides regular updates on ENSO status: http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/enso/index.shtml
Conserve water this summer. How to prepare?
Of course there are many, many ways to conserve water in your garden. Here are just a few that may be useful to you! Feel free to share your favorite tips with us so we can share next time.
• Use diversion drains, swales and terraces to help intercept water flow and spread it out. This will help water seep slowly into the ground where you want it rather than being lost into drains and causing erosion.
• Build mounds around trees and shrubs to reduce runoff and allow moisture to soak slowly into the soil around the canopy drip line and roots.
• Remove unnecessary lower branches and leaves from trees. Not only does this create a more structurally appealing tree by ‘lifting’ the eye up to the canopy, but with fewer leaves there is less moisture loss and this lowers the tree’s water requirements.
• Use a moisture meter - this will help you get a feel for what each of your plants need in terms of moisture. It is easy to use and provides you with an accurate reading of the moisture content in your soil in a few seconds. 10-30% moisture indicates the soil is too DRY and you need to water; 40-70% moisture means the soil is MOIST or ‘just right’ so no action is required; and a reading of 80-100% moisture means your soil is too WET so avoid watering.
• Use a watering can to make sure you only water as much as you need to.
• Mulch, Mulch, Mulch! Up to 70% of water can evaporate from the soil on a hot day if you don’t have mulch as a protective layer on top. Mulch is one of the best moisture holding strategies you can employ. It prevents evaporation from the soil surface, helps suppress water-thieving weeds from growing and many mulches add vital nutrients to the soil at the same time.
Avoid fine mulches that tend to clump and become water-repellent. Instead, use a coarser mulch which allows water/rain to move down through to the soil.
A depth of 3-5cm in a pot (depending on the size) and even deeper (8-10cm) in a garden bed is ideal. Apply mulch onto moist soil and water in well.
Of course there are many, many ways to conserve water in your garden. Here are just a few that may be useful to you! Feel free to share your favorite tips with us so we can share next time.
• Use diversion drains, swales and terraces to help intercept water flow and spread it out. This will help water seep slowly into the ground where you want it rather than being lost into drains and causing erosion.
• Build mounds around trees and shrubs to reduce runoff and allow moisture to soak slowly into the soil around the canopy drip line and roots.
• Remove unnecessary lower branches and leaves from trees. Not only does this create a more structurally appealing tree by ‘lifting’ the eye up to the canopy, but with fewer leaves there is less moisture loss and this lowers the tree’s water requirements.
• Use a moisture meter - this will help you get a feel for what each of your plants need in terms of moisture. It is easy to use and provides you with an accurate reading of the moisture content in your soil in a few seconds. 10-30% moisture indicates the soil is too DRY and you need to water; 40-70% moisture means the soil is MOIST or ‘just right’ so no action is required; and a reading of 80-100% moisture means your soil is too WET so avoid watering.
• Use a watering can to make sure you only water as much as you need to.
• Mulch, Mulch, Mulch! Up to 70% of water can evaporate from the soil on a hot day if you don’t have mulch as a protective layer on top. Mulch is one of the best moisture holding strategies you can employ. It prevents evaporation from the soil surface, helps suppress water-thieving weeds from growing and many mulches add vital nutrients to the soil at the same time.
Avoid fine mulches that tend to clump and become water-repellent. Instead, use a coarser mulch which allows water/rain to move down through to the soil.
A depth of 3-5cm in a pot (depending on the size) and even deeper (8-10cm) in a garden bed is ideal. Apply mulch onto moist soil and water in well.
Tips for the October Gardens, so lets look at what you can do
October is a great time to be in the garden - warmer weather and lots to do!
Weeding is important at this time of year, as the spring sun and (hopefully) rain encourages prolific growth. So cut down the competition for your food and ornamental friends and keep the garden looking great. Get the kids out in the sun, having fun and learning about nature - you may need to bribe them but the results will be worth while!
Now's the time to plant those frost-sensitive plants that you've been waiting for. Tomatoes are definitely on the agenda - we all love tomatoes! Sunflowers are a colourful (and nutritious) addition to your garden and do well in our climate. Pop in your seeds now.
Other vegies to plant now include artichoke, beans, beetroots, capsicum, carrots, chillies, eggplants, French beans, leeks, lettuce, parsnip, potatoes, and sweet corn. And most herbs can be planted now, too - get some basil in to complement your tomatoes, but remember if you're doing mint to put in in a pot so it doesn't spread unchecked. And it's a good time to get in your seasonal annuals like nasturtiums, daisies, petunia and marigolds. Come summer, your garden will be looking fantastic!
October is a great time to be in the garden - warmer weather and lots to do!
Weeding is important at this time of year, as the spring sun and (hopefully) rain encourages prolific growth. So cut down the competition for your food and ornamental friends and keep the garden looking great. Get the kids out in the sun, having fun and learning about nature - you may need to bribe them but the results will be worth while!
Now's the time to plant those frost-sensitive plants that you've been waiting for. Tomatoes are definitely on the agenda - we all love tomatoes! Sunflowers are a colourful (and nutritious) addition to your garden and do well in our climate. Pop in your seeds now.
Other vegies to plant now include artichoke, beans, beetroots, capsicum, carrots, chillies, eggplants, French beans, leeks, lettuce, parsnip, potatoes, and sweet corn. And most herbs can be planted now, too - get some basil in to complement your tomatoes, but remember if you're doing mint to put in in a pot so it doesn't spread unchecked. And it's a good time to get in your seasonal annuals like nasturtiums, daisies, petunia and marigolds. Come summer, your garden will be looking fantastic!
Green Manure
The term 'green manure' refers to plants that are grown not for food or grazing, but instead to be cut back and used to improve the soil. It can be used between crops to rejuvenate the soil from the last crop and/or prepare it for the next. It improves soil structure and water retention, and draws minerals up through the soil to make them more available to plants, and also helps to control nematodes and other pathogens in the soil. Growing green manure can reduce the loss of the key nutrient nitrogen in the soil by up to 97 percent compared to soil left bare between crops.
What to Plant for a Green Manure Crop
You can use pretty much anything as a green manure. So long as it will grow at the time of year that you're planting it, it will be fine. Include some legumes (like peas and beans) to fix nitrogen. Fava beans, lupins and fenugreek also belong to
this family. They are particularly good as they like heavy soils.
Mustard plants are great - they can help to prevent things like root-knot nematode and fungal pathogens. But you should be aware that they are part of the brassica family when you are planning your crop rotation. Comfrey planted as a green manure, it fixes potassium in the soil. The leaves can also be made into a liquid fertilizer or ‘green tea’ by soaking in a bucket of water for two days.
We also use our weeds for green manure. Rather than eliminating them from the food forest, we pull and drop them before they flower or seed. So long as they don't multiply to take over the food plants, we let them grow and recycle them back in to the soil. Milk thistle is one of our common 'weeds' that we use for this purpose, producing a lot of bulk for incorporating in the soil.
Planting a Green Manure Crop
Loosen the soil gently with a fork to break up any clods. (We never dig deep into our soil, as the base soil is composed of clay and pebbles which we don't want to bring to the surface. We have built our soils up over the years so that we have a thick layer of productive topsoil, largely by the use of composts and green manures.)
Spread the green manure seed generously to get a thick coverage. Rake in to cover seed or dust over with compost to discourage birds from eating it, and water it in. In around 6 week's time, the crop should be ready to be cut down and dug in.
Other Tips
Cut down green manure crop before it starts flowering otherwise it will start using nutrients from the soil. Dig in legumes before they get a woody stem as they take a long time to break down. About a week after digging in the green manure crop, dig it in a second time and a week or two after that, the ground should be ready to plant your vegie crop. Be careful not to bring up the underlying clay when digging in or you will ruin the beneficial effects of the green manure on the soil.
The term 'green manure' refers to plants that are grown not for food or grazing, but instead to be cut back and used to improve the soil. It can be used between crops to rejuvenate the soil from the last crop and/or prepare it for the next. It improves soil structure and water retention, and draws minerals up through the soil to make them more available to plants, and also helps to control nematodes and other pathogens in the soil. Growing green manure can reduce the loss of the key nutrient nitrogen in the soil by up to 97 percent compared to soil left bare between crops.
What to Plant for a Green Manure Crop
You can use pretty much anything as a green manure. So long as it will grow at the time of year that you're planting it, it will be fine. Include some legumes (like peas and beans) to fix nitrogen. Fava beans, lupins and fenugreek also belong to
this family. They are particularly good as they like heavy soils.
Mustard plants are great - they can help to prevent things like root-knot nematode and fungal pathogens. But you should be aware that they are part of the brassica family when you are planning your crop rotation. Comfrey planted as a green manure, it fixes potassium in the soil. The leaves can also be made into a liquid fertilizer or ‘green tea’ by soaking in a bucket of water for two days.
We also use our weeds for green manure. Rather than eliminating them from the food forest, we pull and drop them before they flower or seed. So long as they don't multiply to take over the food plants, we let them grow and recycle them back in to the soil. Milk thistle is one of our common 'weeds' that we use for this purpose, producing a lot of bulk for incorporating in the soil.
Planting a Green Manure Crop
Loosen the soil gently with a fork to break up any clods. (We never dig deep into our soil, as the base soil is composed of clay and pebbles which we don't want to bring to the surface. We have built our soils up over the years so that we have a thick layer of productive topsoil, largely by the use of composts and green manures.)
Spread the green manure seed generously to get a thick coverage. Rake in to cover seed or dust over with compost to discourage birds from eating it, and water it in. In around 6 week's time, the crop should be ready to be cut down and dug in.
Other Tips
Cut down green manure crop before it starts flowering otherwise it will start using nutrients from the soil. Dig in legumes before they get a woody stem as they take a long time to break down. About a week after digging in the green manure crop, dig it in a second time and a week or two after that, the ground should be ready to plant your vegie crop. Be careful not to bring up the underlying clay when digging in or you will ruin the beneficial effects of the green manure on the soil.
Wormwood – Artemisia Powis Castle
There are several varieties of wormwood/artemisia – the best known is Artemisia
Absinthium, which is used to make absinthe and has also traditionally been used for both medicinal purposes and as an insect repellent.
Artemisia Powis Castle, which we grow abundantly at the Tucker Patch, is a hybrid of Artemisia
Absinthium and Artemisia Arborescens. It is a perennial aromatic herb that is frost and drought
tolerant and grows abundantly up to a metre wide.
It should be pruned to about 50cm in the spring (but never back to ground level) and during the summer trimmed to keep it compact. Artemisia Powis Castle should not be used for medicinal purposes or to make absinthe, but is effective as a bug repellent.
To make a bug repellent, take a big bunch of leaves and stems and pour boiling water over it to cover it. Leave for at least four hours and preferably overnight. Strain off the liquid and store; the leaves can be composted.
To use, dilute one part of wormwood liquid to four parts water and spray on plants. It is effective for snails, slugs, hard-shelled insects, white butterfly caterpillars, red spider moth and loopers but will not harm bees or other pollinating insects. It needs to be resprayed regularly during the period where the bugs are a problem, and especially after rain or heavy dew.
There are several varieties of wormwood/artemisia – the best known is Artemisia
Absinthium, which is used to make absinthe and has also traditionally been used for both medicinal purposes and as an insect repellent.
Artemisia Powis Castle, which we grow abundantly at the Tucker Patch, is a hybrid of Artemisia
Absinthium and Artemisia Arborescens. It is a perennial aromatic herb that is frost and drought
tolerant and grows abundantly up to a metre wide.
It should be pruned to about 50cm in the spring (but never back to ground level) and during the summer trimmed to keep it compact. Artemisia Powis Castle should not be used for medicinal purposes or to make absinthe, but is effective as a bug repellent.
To make a bug repellent, take a big bunch of leaves and stems and pour boiling water over it to cover it. Leave for at least four hours and preferably overnight. Strain off the liquid and store; the leaves can be composted.
To use, dilute one part of wormwood liquid to four parts water and spray on plants. It is effective for snails, slugs, hard-shelled insects, white butterfly caterpillars, red spider moth and loopers but will not harm bees or other pollinating insects. It needs to be resprayed regularly during the period where the bugs are a problem, and especially after rain or heavy dew.
Mulching
After the rain those pesky weeds grow faster than the plants so get on top of the situation not letting them take hold, (they will if you let them) time to mulch. Mulch benefits plants by keeping the soil cool and moist and depriving weeds of light. Organic mulches, in particular, can actually host crickets and carabid beetles, which seek out and devour thousands of weed seeds. |
Time To Plant
It is time to start planting those summer veggies. Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbage, capsicum, celery, Chinese cabbage, choko, cucumber, eggplant, kale, lettuce, okra, onions, parsnip, peas, potatoes, radish, rhubarb crown, rockmelon, silverbeet, spinach, sweetcorn, sweet potato, tomato, and watermelon are all good to go. Don't forget the herb garden, parsley, basil, coriander, rosemary, marjoram and thyme, what about nasturtiums they are good eating, calendula or marigolds they all attract bees to the garden and they all look pretty as well. |
Peace Lily
Known for removing benzene. It also great for the Bathroom, kitcken and Laundry where mold spors grow, also purifying the air of trichloroethylene, a chemical found in cleaners and solvents; and removing alcohols, Easy to care for, it prefers lots of water, with dappled light. |
Chrysanthemum
Very effective at removing benzene, a carcinogen found in chemicals, plastics, cigarettes and off-gasing. Also removes trichloroethylene found in solvets and cleaners, formaldehyde and ammonia. Likes dappled sun, and lots of water. They only flower once and are generally annual plants |
A cool idea for your plants
Construct some simple frames using recycled timber, PVC pipe or something you have around the yard and 90% shade-cloth to put over your precious plants to protect leaves and new growth that is being scorched in the extreme 40 deg C heat and hot winds. Let plants receive morning sun but cover from the hot afternoon sun. You can also use bamboo stakes to create a teepee and put the shade cloth on all side except the one that faces east. These can also be moved around the garden where needed |
Aloe Vera
Great healing properties for use on burns, sun burn and cuts on the skin, it is also known to remove formaldahyde from the air. Well-drained soil with slight drying between waterings, full sun or part with protection from high heats |
Coffee Grounds
Use leftover tea and coffee grounds to acidify the soil of acid-loving plants such as azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, gardenias and even blueberries. A light sprinkling of about one-quarter of an inch applied once a month will keep the pH of the soil on the acidic side. |
Chamomile
Use chamomile tea to control damping-off fungus, which often attacks young seedlings quite suddenly. Just add a spot of tea to the soil around the base of seedlings once a week or use it as a foliar spray. |
Water From Veggies
The next time you boil or steam vegetables, don't pour the water down the drain, use it to water potted patio plants, and you'll be amazed at how the plants respond to the "vegetable soup." |
Clay Pots
You know the salt deposits that form on clay pots, they look so ugly and spoil a beautiful flower display, well combine equal parts white vinegar, rubbing alcohol and water in a spray bottle. Apply the mixture to the pot and scrub with a plastic brush. Let the pot dry before you plant anything in it. |
Garden Gloves
Don't like wearing garden groves ?Even after scrubbing you end up with dirt stains under your nails. Here is a great tip for you To help prevent dirt under your fingernails, draw your fingernails across a bar of soap and you'll effectively seal the undersides of your nails so dirt can't collect beneath them. Then just use a nail brush to remove the soap |
Healthy Soil
keeping your soil healthy means healthy plants that are better able to resist pests and disease, reducing the need for harmful pesticides. Healthy soil need minerals, organic matter, water, air and living organisms. |
Train your vines
Don't like your vine vegetables taking over your garden. Train melons, squash, and cucumbers onto a vertical trellis or fence. Saves space and looks pretty too |
Sunshine to grow
A minimum of 6 hours of sunshine for your plants is needed when planting your vegetables and with easy access to water you will have very happy vegetables for you meals. If you are a beginner try planting vegies in a container to start with. |
Good Company
Companion planting is an excellent way to improve your garden. Try these combinations which will help keep pests away from your Tomatoes •Chives •Marigolds •Nasturtiums •Basil. |
Summer
Get ready for the hot summer by spreading mulch around your plants to keep the moisture in the soil and keeps your vegetables from getting dirty. With an added bonus it will also help keep the weeds down. |
Garden Tools
Like me do you forget where you put your garden tools? and you know you put them in a safe "I will remember where they are"
Try painting them a bright colour so it wont take so long to find them when you desperately need them.
Like me do you forget where you put your garden tools? and you know you put them in a safe "I will remember where they are"
Try painting them a bright colour so it wont take so long to find them when you desperately need them.
